Note: our 14th century men’s cotehardie is somewhat fitted so use both chest and waist measurements to determine your size.
|Size||Max. Chest Measurement||Max. Waist Measurement|
|Medium||fits up to 42″ / 106 cm||38″ / 96 cm|
|Large||fits up to 48″ / 121 cm||45″ / 114 cm|
|XLarge||fits up to 52″ / 132 cm||48″ / 121 cm|
Please see our Fabric Selection page for current brocade color and pattern options. Please don’t hesitate to email call or text us (708) 502-1937) with any questions about stock or availability.
Shown: Black and Natural laces with metal tips
Natural comes in both silver and brass
Shown: Colored Lacing Points
Colored laces come with silver metal tips only.
Forasmuch that the excessive vanity and wickedness of young men has grown to a very great height, so that many foul customs of dress are now found throughout every land. One thing in particular is the shameful practice of wearing the [doublet] cut of such brevity so that not only is boasted the turn and fullness of the calf, but that the port-piece and very curve of the buttock might thereby be revealed.
-From a 1423 French ecclesiastical condemnation of men’s fashions.
In the 1340s, the short, tight cotehardie had rocked the sensibilities of Churchman, who were aghast at men showing off their legs. But their admonitions proved little more effective than a 1990s father’s horror at his daughter’s low-rise jeans, and in much the same manner, the more they flustered, the more they were ignored! By the early 15th century, the cotehardie had become so short that the old style of chausses and braies had to be replaced with new joined hose that pointed directly to the cotte. This was the birth of the doublet, the dramatic, and final reinvention of men’s fashions in the Middle Ages that would give rise to the fashions of the Renaissance.
Besides its close fit, the doublet retained many elements of its predecessor, particularly the tight, buttoned forearms, and its suitability for production in both simple and sumptuous fabrics. Besides its short length, however, one of the doublet’s distinctive trademarks in this period were full upper arms, raised or “puffed” shoulders, and simple tie closures down the front. We have chosen to replicate all of these elements in our doublet, which based on a mid-century style that developed in the wealthy and fashion-conscious cities of Italy, spread into Austria and southern Germany and from there became popular throughout central and western Europe. We have these style elements are extremely flattering to most figures – with a smooth, tailored silhouette and broad shoulders. Like the originals, our doublet is of a cut that was popular with the nobility and the wealthy mercantile classes, and is produced in both rich brocades and all-natural wools in variety of colors. The pointing holes on the short skirt, or peplum, are designed to perfectly match those of our joined hose. Perhaps more than at any other point in the Middle Ages, clothing in this period was about dramatically standing out from the crowd. To help you do just that, we recommend you add our woolen hood worn as a chaperone to complete the look of the dashing courtier or man of means.
Detail from the fresco by Domenico di Bartolo and Lorenzo di Pietro in the Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala in Sienna, Italy circa 1440
Detail from a Lassone panel painted in Florence and currently in the collection of the Earl of Crawford in London, England, circa 1448
Detail from a portrait by Pisanello in the Uffizi in Florence, Italy circa 1445-50
Detail from fresco by Masalino da Panicale in San Clemente in the chapel of Cadinal Banda in the Castiglione, Rome Italy circa 1431
Detail from the fresco by Domenico di Bartolo and Lorenzo di Pietro in the Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala in Sienna, Italy circa 1444
Drawing after a Book of Hours by Jean Fouquet in the Musee Conde, Chantilly, France circa 15th century
Drawing after detail of a fresco by Gregorio Franceschino in the Tomb Chapel in the Cathedral of San Giovanni Batista in Monza, Italy circa the first half of the 15th century
Left: This Gentleman is garbed in a red brocade Doublet, black Joined Hose, and red Leather Garters. Beneath his outerwear are his Collared Shirt, and Braies.
Right: This lady wears a red brocade Houppelande that also matches her Henin. She wears her white linen Underdress beneath. Her Silk Veil is cut in an oval shape to flutter around her shoulders. She tucks her exposed sleeves into tan leather Gloves.
This Fighter stands out like the sun in a golden brocade Doublet. He wears black Joined Hose, Gloves, and Shoes as a stark contrast, along with a black Medieval Belt. Beneath his doublet and hose are his Shirt and Braies. He keeps his head warm and fashionable with a beige Chaperone decorated with a large Badge.
This Fighter takes a humble kneel in his red brocade Doublet. He wears his Shirt and Braies beneath. His Joined Hose, Garters, Belt, and Shoes are all color coordinated in black, along with his Gloves. He finished his look with a beige Chaperone Hood decorated with a large Badge.
Left: This Gentleman is garbed in a red/gold brocade Doublet, black Joined Hose, blue Leather Garters and tan Tall Riding Boots. Beneath his outerwear are his 15th Century Collared Shirt, and Braies. He decorates his outfit with a royal blue wool Chaperone and Belt.
Right: This lady wears a red/gold brocade Houppelande. She wears her gold linen Kirtle beneath. Her Silk Veil is pinned to a Barbette for security with Veil Pins.
This Gentleman is garbed in a red/gold brocade Doublet, black Joined Hose, blue Leather Garters and tan Tall Riding Boots. Beneath his outerwear are his 15th Century Collared Shirt, and Braies. He decorates his outfit with a brown wool Short Tailed Hood and blue leather Belt.
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