CLEARANCE 15th c. Men’s Brocade Houppelande

In the waning decades of the 14th century, a new style of mens and womens fashion evolved as a direct contrast to the sleek, fitted cotehardie. This was sumptuous gown called the houppelande, and while in any ways a return to the long, elegant surcoat, dalmatic or gown, it combined the voluminous, angel-wing sleeves of the 12th century, previously seen only in womens fashions, combined with the close-fitting, high collar of the late-14th century cotte. The flowing body of the houppelande was pleated and gathered in at the waist and cinctured with a narrow belt.

The houppelande continued to evolve throughout the 1400s, and developed a rather unique and exaggerated silhouette by the 1470s. We have chosen to reproduce an earlier style of garment that reflects an earlier, more natural style fashionable amongst nobles, courtiers and wealthy burghers at the start of the 15th century. Based on the beautiful examples in the Tres Riche Houres of the Duc de Berry, this style had a broad, international appeal, and can be found throughout England, France, northern Italy and the Holy Roman Empire.

The 14th century saw a cooling of the Earth's climate, and this is reflected in the fashions that developed over the next two-hundred years. Houppelandes were often made of sumptuous fabrics such as felted wool and silk velvet, lined and edged in contrasting colors. It was usually worn over a cotehardie. Our first example is and is made of rich linen with a contrasting collar. Kept unlined for the hot summer months, the sleeves are trimmed in the same contrasting colors. A perfect garment to personalize by embroidering or block printing for that perfect, Duc de Berry look!