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15th c.- 16th c. Short Doublet – Linen, Wool or Brocade

$369.95

    • Based on contemporary medieval artwork(see Historical Inspirations below)
    • Flattering and authentic fit with a lightly padded front piece for a crisp silhouette
    • Made in Linen, lined in cotton(for sturdiness to help keep shape)
    • Can also be made in wool or brocade – see fabric page for color options and add color choice in notes of order
    • For wool or brocade option we encourage you to contact us for current options in stock
    • For coordinating pieces see our Wool or Cotton Joined Hose or our linen Meyer Pants(pluderhosen shown in photos)
    • Alternatively, see our longer, earlier 15th c. doublet in Linen, Wool or Brocade
    • No visible machine stitching except eyelets
    • Comes in three sizes to accommodate most body types
    • Points available in standard natural with plastic tips or colors with metal tips
    • Please note these are made to order and therefore are not eligible for exchange or return. Production time is at least 4-6 weeks.
    • Please don’t hesitate to email  call or text us (708) 502-1937 with any questions about options or availability.

SIZE, COLOR & LACE OPTIONS

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SKU 4569HZ-1-1-2-1-2-3-2-2-3-1-1-1-1-1 Categories , , , Tags , , ,

Description

Size Chart

Note: our Late 15th c. Short Doublet is somewhat fitted so use both chest and waist measurements to determine your size.

Size

Max. Chest Measurement

Max. Waist Measurement

Medium

fits up to 42″ / 106 cm

38″ / 96 cm

Large

fits up to 48″ / 121 cm

45″ / 114 cm

XLarge

fits up to 52″ / 132 cm

48″ / 121 cm

White, Black, Red, Royal Blue, Burgundy, Purple

Slate Blue, Sage, Dark Green, Oatmeal, Dark Brown, Gold

Note: Please note, with the difficulty of accurately representing colors on a variety of monitors, the color names are meant as descriptions along with the swatches. Please use both when deciding on what color to order. Also, despite how the colors may appear on your monitor the same color names in Wool, Silk and Linen are different and do not exactly coordinate.

Lace Options:

Shown: Black and Natural laces with metal tips

Natural comes in both silver and brass

Shown: Colored Lacing Points

Colored laces come with silver metal tips only.

For as much that the excessive vanity and wickedness of young men has grown to a very great height, so that many foul customs of dress are now found throughout every land. One thing in particular is the shameful practice of wearing the [doublet] cut of such brevity so that not only is boasted the turn and fullness of the calf, but that the port-piece and very curve of the buttock might thereby be revealed.

From a 1423 French ecclesiastical condemnation of men’s fashions.

In the late 14th century, the shorter, well fitted cotehardie had rocked the sensibilities of Churchman, who were aghast at men showing off their legs. But their admonitions proved little more effective than a 1990s father’s horror at his daughter’s low-rise jeans, and in much the same manner, the more they flustered, the more they were ignored! By the early 15th century, the cotehardie had become so short that the old style of chauses and braies had to be replaced with new joined hose that pointed directly to the cotte. This was the birth of the doublet, the dramatic, and final reinvention of men’s fashions in the Middle Ages that would give rise to the fashions of the Renaissance. In the late 15th century and well into the 16th century the doublet evolved and itself got shorter. It can be seen to the worn with joined hose and later, trunk hose as well as the distinctly elaborate pluderhosen(as shown in our photos).

Besides its close fit, the doublet retained many elements of its predecessor, particularly the tight, laced or buttoned forearms, and its suitability for production in both simple and sumptuous fabrics. Besides its short length, however, one of the doublet’s distinctive trademarks in this period were full upper arms, raised or “puffed” shoulders, and simple tie closures down the front. We have chosen to replicate all of these elements in our doublet, which based on a late 15th century style that developed in the wealthy and fashion-conscious cities of Italy, spread into Austria and southern Germany and from there became popular throughout central and western Europe. We have these style elements are extremely flattering to most figures – with a smooth, tailored silhouette and broad shoulders.

Like the originals, our doublet is of a cut that was popular with the nobility and the wealthy mercantile classes. The shortness of the doublet meant to perfectly showcase our Meyer Pants(pluderhosen). Perhaps more than at any other point in the Middle Ages, clothing in this period was about dramatically standing out from the crowd. To help you do just that, we recommend you add our woolen hood worn as a chaperone to complete the look of the dashing courtier or man of means.

Detail from the fresco by Domenico di Bartolo and Lorenzo di Pietro in the Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala in Sienna, Italy circa 1440

Detail from a Lassone panel painted in Florence and currently in the collection of the Earl of Crawford in London, England, circa 1448

Detail from a portrait by Pisanello in the Uffizi in Florence, Italy circa 1445-50

Detail from fresco by Masalino da Panicale in San Clemente in the chapel of Cadinal Banda in the Castiglione, Rome Italy circa 1431

Detail from the fresco by Domenico di Bartolo and Lorenzo di Pietro in the Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala in Sienna, Italy circa 1444

Drawing after a Book of Hours by Jean Fouquet in the Musee Conde, Chantilly, France circa 15th century

Drawing after detail of a fresco by Gregorio Franceschino in the Tomb Chapel in the Cathedral of San Giovanni Batista in Monza, Italy circa the first half of the 15th century

This dashing Noble cuts a sleek with his red  Joined Hose and black linen Doublet. they are supported from underneath by his Shirt and Braies.  To show of the curve of his leg, he wraps a pair of black wool Garters at his knee. He matches his Doublet to his black Turnshoes.

This Noble as opted for a splash of color. His sunshine gold Doublet is pair with green Joined Hose and tied at the knee with ribbon Garters. As with any respectable gentleman,  his Shirt and Braies are tucked beneath out of sight. He decorates his waist with a brown Belt and finishes his look with Turn Boots and an Acorn Hat.

Bottom Left: Our 15th century Wool Doublet in Dark Green worn with our 15th century Shirt, Wool Joined Hose, Wool Hood, and Black Turnshoes.
Center: He’s wearing our 15th century Brocade Doublet worn with our 15th century Shirt, Wool Joined Hose, and Golden Brown Turnshoes.
She’s wearing our 15th century Brocade Houppelande in Burgundy with white Linen Underdress and Silk Organza Veil.
Top Right: Our 15th century Linen Doublet in Black worn with our 15th century Shirt, Cotton Joined Hose in Burgundy, Ribbon Garters and Turnshoes.

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