15th c.- 16th c. Short Doublet – Linen, Wool or Brocade

For as much that the excessive vanity and wickedness of young men has grown to a very great height, so that many foul customs of dress are now found throughout every land. One thing in particular is the shameful practice of wearing the [doublet] cut of such brevity so that not only is boasted the turn and fullness of the calf, but that the port-piece and very curve of the buttock might thereby be revealed.

From a 1423 French ecclesiastical condemnation of men’s fashions.

In the late 14th century, the shorter, well fitted cotehardie had rocked the sensibilities of Churchman, who were aghast at men showing off their legs. But their admonitions proved little more effective than a 1990s father’s horror at his daughter’s low-rise jeans, and in much the same manner, the more they flustered, the more they were ignored! By the early 15th century, the cotehardie had become so short that the old style of chauses and braies had to be replaced with new joined hose that pointed directly to the cotte. This was the birth of the doublet, the dramatic, and final reinvention of men’s fashions in the Middle Ages that would give rise to the fashions of the Renaissance. In the late 15th century and well into the 16th century the doublet evolved and itself got shorter. It can be seen to the worn with joined hose and later, trunk hose as well as the distinctly elaborate pluderhosen(as shown in our photos).

Besides its close fit, the doublet retained many elements of its predecessor, particularly the tight, laced or buttoned forearms, and its suitability for production in both simple and sumptuous fabrics. Besides its short length, however, one of the doublet’s distinctive trademarks in this period were full upper arms, raised or “puffed” shoulders, and simple tie closures down the front. We have chosen to replicate all of these elements in our doublet, which based on a late 15th century style that developed in the wealthy and fashion-conscious cities of Italy, spread into Austria and southern Germany and from there became popular throughout central and western Europe. We have these style elements are extremely flattering to most figures – with a smooth, tailored silhouette and broad shoulders.

Like the originals, our doublet is of a cut that was popular with the nobility and the wealthy mercantile classes. The shortness of the doublet meant to perfectly showcase our Meyer Pants(pluderhosen). Perhaps more than at any other point in the Middle Ages, clothing in this period was about dramatically standing out from the crowd. To help you do just that, we recommend you add our woolen hood worn as a chaperone to complete the look of the dashing courtier or man of means.