14th c. Brocade Men’s Cotehardie

SKU: 4569HZ-1-1-2-1-2-3-2-2-3-1-1.

14th c. Brocade Men’s Cotehardie

$349.95

    • Based on contemporary medieval artwork(see Historical Inspirations below)
    • Authentic lines for comfortable, distinguished look
    • Made in Brocade or Velvet Brocade, lined in natural linen
    • Also available in reversible Linen or Wool
    • Available in a diverse palette that includes jewel tones and muted colors
    • No visible machine stitching except buttonholes
    • Comes in four sizes to accommodate most body types
    • If you would like to order this in one of our velvet brocades – use that selection in the drop down and specify which pattern(from the swatches below) in the notes of your order.
    • size XXL is available as a custom order +$40
    • This style is made to order so please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery
    • Please don’t hesitate to email  call or text us (708) 502-1937) with any questions about stock or availability.

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About our 14th c. Men's Cotehardie

Our men's cotehardie is based on contemporary artwork, specifically the splendid examples in the Lancelot du Lac manuscript (circa 1380). This magnificently illustrated rendition of Chretien de Troyes' account of the quest for the Grail, was produced for the court of Bernarbo Visconti, Count of Milan, and it remains one the most cherished pictorial sources for fashion, arms, and armour in aristocratic courts of the late 14th century.

The cotehardies depicted in Lancelot are of a classic form that was particularly popular in northern Italy and France during the last quarter of the 14th century: short and closely fitted, with a long torso and a flare at the hips. There is a short, standing collar, distinctive to the last quarter of the century. The arms have a grand assiette arm-hole and are generously full to the elbow, at which point they significantly taper to follow the line of the forearm. The sleeve buttons from elbow to the cuff with cast, metal buttons, as is depicted in the manuscript. We have followed contemporary artwork by seaming the sleeve at the elbow and making the lower sleeve out of a contrasting color of fabric. This gives the garment a particularly distinctive, and dressier, look.

The Lancelot manuscript depicts the clothing of a royal court, and their real-world counterparts would have been cut and sewn to fit each customer. Because they are a very difficult garment to fit "off the rack", we have departed from what is illustrated using other contemporary design elements to provide a more comfortable fit. One alteration is a small slit in the side seam of each hem, allowing a greater freedom of motion when sitting or walking. Similar examples can be seen in a variety of French, English and Italian sources, such as the Epistre au roi Richart of Phillipe de Mezieres (1395), and illustrated in the manuscript il Fior di Battaglia of Fiore dei Liberi (1409). The most notable example, and one of the earliest, is the surviving cotehardie or "pourpoint" of Charles of Blois (circa 1364).

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Size Chart

Note: our 14th century men’s cotehardie is somewhat fitted so use both chest and waist measurements to determine your size.

Size Max. Chest Measurement Max. Waist Measurement
Medium 36″ / 91 cm 35″ / 89 cm
Large 41″ / 104 cm 40″ / 102 cm
XLarge 46″ / 117 cm 45″ / 115 cm
XXL 51″ / 129 cm 50″ / 127 cm

Brocade Colors:

Please see our Fabric Selection page for current brocade color and pattern options. Please don’t hesitate to email  call or text us(708) 502-1937) with any questions about stock or availability.

 

Our men’s cotehardie is based on contemporary artwork, specifically the splendid examples in the Lancelot du Lac manuscript (circa 1380). This magnificently illustrated rendition of Chretien de Troyes’ account of the quest for the Grail, was produced for the court of Bernarbo Visconti, Count of Milan, and it remains one the most cherished pictorial sources for fashion, arms, and armour in aristocratic courts of the late 14th century.

The cotehardies depicted in Lancelot are of a classic form that was particularly popular in northern Italy and France during the last quarter of the 14th century: short and closely fitted, with a long torso and a flare at the hips. There is a short, standing collar, distinctive to the last quarter of the century. The arms have a grand assiette arm-hole and are generously full to the elbow, at which point they significantly taper to follow the line of the forearm. The sleeve buttons from elbow to the cuff with cast, metal buttons, as is depicted in the manuscript. We have followed contemporary artwork by seaming the sleeve at the elbow and making the lower sleeve out of a contrasting color of fabric. This gives the garment a particularly distinctive, and dressier, look.

The Lancelot manuscript depicts the clothing of a royal court, and their real-world counterparts would have been cut and sewn to fit each customer. Because they are a very difficult garment to fit “off the rack”, we have departed from what is illustrated using other contemporary design elements to provide a more comfortable fit. One alteration is a small slit in the side seam of each hem, allowing a greater freedom of motion when sitting or walking. Similar examples can be seen in a variety of French, English and Italian sources, such as the Epistre au roi Richart of Phillipe de Mezieres (1395), and illustrated in the manuscript il Fior di Battaglia of Fiore dei Liberi (1409). The most notable example, and one of the earliest, is the surviving cotehardie or “pourpoint” of Charles of Blois (circa 1364).

Our cotehardie is based on contemporary artwork from a variety of sources. We have retained all of the classic elements of the historical design: long, full sleeves that taper at the wrists, a body that flares at the hips, and cast pewter buttons based on a contemporary pattern and arranged in a uniquely medieval placement. As was done in the 14th century, this cotehardie can be worn alone over a linen shirt, or beneath a houppelande. Revival cotehardies are available in linen – the ubiquitous fabric of medieval Europe -, Wool, and Brocade for the man of means. All edges are finished or fully enclosed, improving both aesthetics and durability.

Drawing after a detail of a late 14th century illumination Walter de Hamuntesham Attacked by a Mob

Illustration from the Romance of Alexander, French, 1338-44, fol 59r in the British Museum

Illustration from the Romance of Alexander, French, 1338-44, fol 59r in the British Museum

Illustration from the Romance of Alexander, French, 1338-44, fol 59r in the British Museum

This Lord draws his dagger and takes a powerful stance in his black and silver Brocade Cotehardie. Beneath his cotehardie lies his slim cut medieval shirt. He bypasses the need for Chauses and Braies by donning a pair of Simple Cotton Hose. He matches his wool GartersDecorated Belt, and Ankle Boots. His crowning glory is a burgundy Chaperone with it’s long sumptuous tail.

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