15th c. Wool Houppelande

SKU: 4569HZ-1-1-2-1-2-2-1-2-1-1.

15th c. Wool Houppelande

$549.95

    • Based on contemporary medieval artwork(see Historical Inspirations below)
    • Made in Linen
    • Also comes in Linen and Brocade versions
    • Available in a medieval palette of natural and jewel tones
    • If you would like to order this in one of our patterned wools – use that selection in the drop down and specify which pattern(from the swatches below) in the notes of your order.
    • All interior seams finished
    • Comes with contrast belt that is pinned in place to fit you exactly
    • Flattering and authentic fit with a neckline that can be worn 3 ways!
    • Also see our Kirtle and Underdress for base layer gowns
    • Two Sizes fits most and flatters any figure! Sizes 2/3 and 4/5
    • This item is made to order so please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery

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About our Women's 15th Century Houppelande

“My Lady, please, you must cover your hair!

Oh, Isabeau, you fussy old nursemaid, there is a veil attached to my hennin.

Yes, and it covers nothing at all! Your hair streams forth like a river. It is shameful.

Oh pish! Do you want me to look like a shriveled old frump? This is a tournament in honor of His Grace’s nameday. All the greats of Burgundy will be there! It is shameful if I do not catch their eyes! Indeed, the entire Order of the Golden Fleece will be gathered, along with the many young knights and squires who hope to gain its notice through their feats of arms. But most importantly, and secretly, it is the eye of one young squire in particular that is of concern.

Then at least pin shut your collar with a brooch. You wish to look a lady, not a strumpet!

And this is the fashion of a lady; did not Franz say so when he returned from Milan? Would a strumpet of a belt with a silver buckle fastened beneath her bosom? Then again, fingering that silly Englishman’s carnelian pin, wouldn’t it be wise to let a certain Burgundian squire know he’d best not take things for granted? All right, Isabeau, I see your point. Perhaps a brooch would be more appropriate “

As a society in transition, the 15th century was if nothing else, a dramatic era, and this is reflected in its fashions. In the waning decades of the 14th century, a new style evolved as a direct contrast to the sleek, fitted women’s cotehardie. This sumptuous gown was the houppelande, and in any ways represented the perfect marriage of three centuries of women’s fashion. In this one garment, the voluminous, angel-wing sleeves of the 12th century combined with the loose body of the 13th, and the deep necklines of the 14th.Combined with a high-collar, full-train, an Underdress, and a tall Hat, or Henin, the end result was a stunningly elegant gown that is associated with the fair damsel to this day.

The houppelande continued to evolve throughout the 1400s, and we have chosen to reproduce a style that would have fashionable amongst courtiers and wealthy burghers throughout the second and third quarters of the 15th century. Based on primarily northern Italian and Burgundian sources, the two great fashion centers of the period, this style had a broad, international appeal, and can be found throughout England, France and the Holy Roman Empire. In honor of the garment’s inherent elegance and sumptuousness, we are introducing our houppelande in natural Brocade, light Linen, and sumptuous Wool in a dazzling array of jewel tones. With its deep neckline, wearing the houppelande over our simple, white, linen Underdress protects milady’s modesty, and gives the ensemble its finished look. We specifically designed the neck to be worn in 3 different styles (as shown below) either with collar folded down and flared out to show off your underdress and collar bones, with the collar stood up to its for height for an elegant silhouette suited to court dress or modestly pinned closed at the neck for yet a third look.

When we completed the prototypes for this gown we were amazed how women from waif to rubenesque could don the same garment and be instantly transformed into a lady of station and grace. When you try on yours, you’ll instantly see why this may be the most stunning gown we have ever produced!

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Size Chart

Size Max. Bust Measurement
2/3 up to 47″ / 119cm
4/5 up to 60″ / 152cm

 

Note: In our women’s clothes we’ve abandoned ‘standard’, modern sizing because it is far from standard, and tends to cause more confusion than provide accurate information. So, please judge your size by your bust measurements. For this gown we’ve given only the maximum bust size range because this style gives an extremely flexible and flattering fit – it really does fit and look great on most sizes. This style flares dramatically from the bust line so waist and hips measurements are not an issue with fit. Although it is made of yards of fabric with generous sizing the beautiful drape of the brocade and the matching belt allows for a flattering fit in your size. The belt is meant to be pinned at the center back to fit you exactly and then use the end of the belt to create a loose ‘knightly knot’ to cover the pinned portion. Our Houppelande runs long so that you can wear it in the authentic fashion of the period – trailing along the ground or hem it to your desired length.

Wool Colors:

Red, Burgundy, Royal Blue, Hunter Green, Purple, Black

Dark Brown, Camel, Patterned Wool (Please don’t hesitate to email, call or text us (708-502-1937) with any questions about available patterned wools)

“My Lady, please, you must cover your hair!

Oh, Isabeau, you fussy old nursemaid, there is a veil attached to my hennin.

Yes, and it covers nothing at all! Your hair streams forth like a river. It is shameful.

Oh pish! Do you want me to look like a shriveled old frump? This is a tournament in honor of His Grace’s nameday. All the greats of Burgundy will be there! It is shameful if I do not catch their eyes! Indeed, the entire Order of the Golden Fleece will be gathered, along with the many young knights and squires who hope to gain its notice through their feats of arms. But most importantly, and secretly, it is the eye of one young squire in particular that is of concern.

Then at least pin shut your collar with a brooch. You wish to look a lady, not a strumpet!

And this is the fashion of a lady; did not Franz say so when he returned from Milan? Would a strumpet of a belt with a silver buckle fastened beneath her bosom? Then again, fingering that silly Englishman’s carnelian pin, wouldn’t it be wise to let a certain Burgundian squire know he’d best not take things for granted? All right, Isabeau, I see your point. Perhaps a brooch would be more appropriate “

As a society in transition, the 15th century was if nothing else, a dramatic era, and this is reflected in its fashions. In the waning decades of the 14th century, a new style evolved as a direct contrast to the sleek, fitted women’s cotehardie. This sumptuous gown was the houppelande, and in any ways represented the perfect marriage of three centuries of women’s fashion. In this one garment, the voluminous, angel-wing sleeves of the 12th century combined with the loose body of the 13th, and the deep necklines of the 14th.Combined with a high-collar, full-train, an Underdress, and a tall Hat, or Henin, the end result was a stunningly elegant gown that is associated with the fair damsel to this day.

The houppelande continued to evolve throughout the 1400s, and we have chosen to reproduce a style that would have fashionable amongst courtiers and wealthy burghers throughout the second and third quarters of the 15th century. Based on primarily northern Italian and Burgundian sources, the two great fashion centers of the period, this style had a broad, international appeal, and can be found throughout England, France and the Holy Roman Empire. In honor of the garment’s inherent elegance and sumptuousness, we are introducing our houppelande in natural Brocade, light Linen, and sumptuous Wool in a dazzling array of jewel tones. With its deep neckline, wearing the houppelande over our simple, white, linen Underdress protects milady’s modesty, and gives the ensemble its finished look. We specifically designed the neck to be worn in 3 different styles (as shown below) either with collar folded down and flared out to show off your underdress and collar bones, with the collar stood up to its for height for an elegant silhouette suited to court dress or modestly pinned closed at the neck for yet a third look.

When we completed the prototypes for this gown we were amazed how women from waif to rubenesque could don the same garment and be instantly transformed into a lady of station and grace. When you try on yours, you’ll instantly see why this may be the most stunning gown we have ever produced!

From a miniature of the Nine Heros in the Livre du chevalier errant by Thomas de Saluces in the Bibliotheque Nationale de France ms fr 12559 fol. 125 r/v, in Paris, France circa 1404

Drawing after wall painting by circle of Giacomo Jacuerio in the Great Hall of Castello di Manto in Piedmont, Italy circa 1411-16

Drawing after wall painting by circle of Giacomo Jacuerio in the Great Hall of Castello di Manto in Piedmont, Italy circa 1411-16

Drawing after detail of a fresco by Gregorio Franceschino in the Tomb Chapel in the Cathedral of San Giovanni Batista in Monza, Italy circa the first half of the 15th century

Drawing after A Middle Class Wedding by Jacques Legrand, Livre de BonnesMoeurs, Paris Bnf, ms fr. 1023 fol. 60Vcirca 1410

Drawing after wall painting by unknown painter in the Eagle’s Tower in the Castello del Buon Coniglio in Trent, Italy circa 1406

Left: This Gentleman is garbed in a red brocade Doublet, black Joined Hose, and red Leather Garters. Beneath his outerwear are his Collared Shirt, and Braies.

Right: This lady wears a red brocade Houppelande that also matches her Henin. She wears her white linen Underdress beneath. Her Silk Veil is cut in an oval shape to flutter around her shoulders. She tucks her exposed sleeves into tan leather Gloves.

This Noble Lady is dressed in a white and purple linen Houppelande. She matches her Kirtle beneath to her Turret Hat atop her head. Beneath her hat she dons a linen Veil. Unseen from the public eye is her linen ChemiseStockings, and Shoes. She pins a Decorative Brooch to her belt.

This Lady adds a splash of yellow in the form of her Turret Hat, which also holds her linen Veil in place. She dons a Chemise underneath her purple brocade Houppelande. Beneath are hidden away her StockingsGarters, and Ankle Boots. She decorates her Houppelande with a decorated Badge.

Left: The noble strikes a regal pose in his burgundy wool Doublet, navy wool Chaperone, and navy Joined Hose. His leather Belt and Tall Boots add a touch of rustic essence to his elevated status

Right: This Lady smiles serenely in her in green brocade Houppelande and red wool Kirtle. Beneath she conceals a Chemise and Stockings, as well as Garters and Shoes.

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