15th c. Wool Doublet

SKU: 4569HZ-1-1-2-1-2-3-2-2-3-1-1-1-1.

15th c. Wool Doublet

$369.95

    • Based on contemporary medieval artwork(see Historical Inspirations below)
    • Authentic lines for a comfortable, distinguished look
    • Also available in Linen and Brocade
    • All interior seams enclosed or finished
    • Available in a medieval palette of natural and jewel tones
    • If you would like to order this in one of our patterned wools – use that selection in the drop down and specify which pattern(from the swatches below) in the notes of your order.
    • No visible machine stitching except buttonholes
    • Comes in three sizes to accommodate most body types
    • Can be custom ordered in any color combination as a Parti-colored +$40
    • If you would like to this in parti-colored combo –  use that selection in the drop down and specify which two colors you would like(limited to colors listed in swatches below
    • You can upgrade to metal tipped points (+$24) that come in natural and colors
    • This style is made to order so please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery
    • Please don’t hesitate to email call or text us(708) 502-1937) with any questions about stock or availability.

SIZE, COLOR & LACE OPTIONS

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About our 15th c. Doublet

Forasmuch that the excessive vanity and wickedness of young men has grown to a very great height, so that many foul customs of dress are now found throughout every land. One thing in particular is the shameful practice of wearing the [doublet] cut of such brevity so that not only is boasted the turn and fullness of the calf, but that the port-piece and very curve of the buttock might thereby be revealed.

-From a 1423 French ecclesiastical condemnation of men's fashions.

In the 1340s, the short, tight cotehardie had rocked the sensibilities of Churchman, who were aghast at men showing off their legs. But their admonitions proved little more effective than a 1990s father's horror at his daughter's low-rise jeans, and in much the same manner, the more they flustered, the more they were ignored! By the early 15th century, the cotehardie had become so short that the old style of chausses and braies had to be replaced with new joined hose that pointed directly to the cotte. This was the birth of the doublet, the dramatic, and final reinvention of men's fashions in the Middle Ages that would give rise to the fashions of the Renaissance.

Besides its close fit, the doublet retained many elements of its predecessor, particularly the tight, buttoned forearms, and its suitability for production in both simple and sumptuous fabrics. Besides its short length, however, one of the doublet's distinctive trademarks in this period were full upper arms, raised or “puffed” shoulders, and simple tie closures down the front. We have chosen to replicate all of these elements in our doublet, which based on a mid-century style that developed in the wealthy and fashion-conscious cities of Italy, spread into Austria and southern Germany and from there became popular throughout central and western Europe. We have these style elements are extremely flattering to most figures - with a smooth, tailored silhouette and broad shoulders. Like the originals, our doublet is of a cut that was popular with the nobility and the wealthy mercantile classes, and is produced in both rich brocades and all-natural wools in variety of colors. The pointing holes on the short skirt, or peplum, are designed to perfectly match those of our joined hose. Perhaps more than at any other point in the Middle Ages, clothing in this period was about dramatically standing out from the crowd. To help you do just that, we recommend you add our woolen hood worn as a chaperone to complete the look of the dashing courtier or man of means.

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Size Chart

Note: our 14th century men’s cotehardie is somewhat fitted so use both chest and waist measurements to determine your size.

Size Max. Chest Measurement Max. Waist Measurement
Medium fits up to 42″ / 106 cm 38″ / 96 cm
Large fits up to 48″ / 121 cm 45″ / 114 cm
XLarge fits up to 52″ / 132 cm 48″ / 121 cm

Wool Colors:

Red, Burgundy, Royal Blue, Hunter Green, Purple

Dark Brown, Camel, Patterned Wool (Email, Call or text us (708 – 502 -1937) for available patterned wools)

Lace Options:

Shown: Black and Natural laces with metal tips

Natural comes in both silver and brass

Shown: Colored Lacing Points

Colored laces come with silver metal tips only.

Forasmuch that the excessive vanity and wickedness of young men has grown to a very great height, so that many foul customs of dress are now found throughout every land. One thing in particular is the shameful practice of wearing the [doublet] cut of such brevity so that not only is boasted the turn and fullness of the calf, but that the port-piece and very curve of the buttock might thereby be revealed.

-From a 1423 French ecclesiastical condemnation of men’s fashions.

In the 1340s, the short, tight cotehardie had rocked the sensibilities of Churchman, who were aghast at men showing off their legs. But their admonitions proved little more effective than a 1990s father’s horror at his daughter’s low-rise jeans, and in much the same manner, the more they flustered, the more they were ignored! By the early 15th century, the cotehardie had become so short that the old style of chausses and braies had to be replaced with new joined hose that pointed directly to the cotte. This was the birth of the doublet, the dramatic, and final reinvention of men’s fashions in the Middle Ages that would give rise to the fashions of the Renaissance.

Besides its close fit, the doublet retained many elements of its predecessor, particularly the tight, buttoned forearms, and its suitability for production in both simple and sumptuous fabrics. Besides its short length, however, one of the doublet’s distinctive trademarks in this period were full upper arms, raised or “puffed” shoulders, and simple tie closures down the front. We have chosen to replicate all of these elements in our doublet, which based on a mid-century style that developed in the wealthy and fashion-conscious cities of Italy, spread into Austria and southern Germany and from there became popular throughout central and western Europe. We have these style elements are extremely flattering to most figures – with a smooth, tailored silhouette and broad shoulders. Like the originals, our doublet is of a cut that was popular with the nobility and the wealthy mercantile classes, and is produced in both rich brocades and all-natural wools in variety of colors. The pointing holes on the short skirt, or peplum, are designed to perfectly match those of our joined hose. Perhaps more than at any other point in the Middle Ages, clothing in this period was about dramatically standing out from the crowd. To help you do just that, we recommend you add our woolen hood worn as a chaperone to complete the look of the dashing courtier or man of means.

Detail from the fresco by Domenico di Bartolo and Lorenzo di Pietro in the Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala in Sienna, Italy circa 1440

Detail from a Lassone panel painted in Florence and currently in the collection of the Earl of Crawford in London, England, circa 1448

Detail from a portrait by Pisanello in the Uffizi in Florence, Italy circa 1445-50

Detail from fresco by Masalino da Panicale in San Clemente in the chapel of Cadinal Banda in the Castiglione, Rome Italy circa 1431

Detail from the fresco by Domenico di Bartolo and Lorenzo di Pietro in the Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala in Sienna, Italy circa 1444

Drawing after a Book of Hours by Jean Fouquet in the Musee Conde, Chantilly, France circa 15th century

Drawing after detail of a fresco by Gregorio Franceschino in the Tomb Chapel in the Cathedral of San Giovanni Batista in Monza, Italy circa the first half of the 15th century

The noble strikes a regal pose in his burgundy wool Doublet, black wool Chaperone, and black Joined Hose. His leather Belt and Tall Boots add a touch of rustic essence to his elevated status

Right: This Noble as opted for a splash of color. His sunshine gold linen Doublet is pair with green Joined Hose and tied at the knee with ribbon Garters. As with any respectable gentleman,  his Shirt and Braies are tucked beneath out of sight. He decorates his waist with a brown Belt and finishes his look with Turnshoes and an Acorn Hat.

Left: This Lady glows in her copper Brocade Houppelande and red Kirtle. She pins a lovely Brooch to her chest and adds height to her look with a gold brocade Henin.

Left: This Lord kneels in admiration of his Lady in his green Wool Doublet and burgundy Joined Hose. He wears black Turnshoes to match his leather Belt and Pouch.

Right: The lady dons a sage linen Frontlaced Gown, Chemise, and gold Half Sleeves. She ties a decorated belt around her waist. She wears her hair pinned back with a barbette and veil.

This noble stands tall and proud in our 15th century Wool Doublet in Dark Green worn with our 15th century Shirt, Wool Joined Hose, Wool Hood, and Black Turnshoes.

This dashing Noble cuts a sleek with his red  Joined Hose and black linen Doublet. they are supported from underneath by his Shirt and Braies.  To show of the curve of his leg, he wraps a pair of black wool Garters at his knee. He matches his Doublet to his black Turnshoes.

Left: The noble strikes a regal pose in his burgundy wool Doublet, navy wool Chaperone, and navy Joined Hose. His leather Belt and Tall Boots add a touch of rustic essence to his elevated status

 

Right: This Lady smiles serenely in her in green brocade Houppelande and red wool Kirtle. Beneath she conceals a chemise and stockings, as well as garters and shoes.

Bottom Left: Our 15th century Wool Doublet in Dark Green worn with our 15th century Shirt, Wool Joined Hose, Wool Hood, and Black Turnshoes.
Center: He’s wearing our 15th century Brocade Doublet worn with our 15th century Shirt, Wool Joined Hose, and Golden Brown Turnshoes.
She’s wearing our 15th century Brocade Houppelande in Burgundy with white Linen Underdress and Silk Organza Veil.
Top Right: Our 15th century Linen Doublet in Black worn with our 15th century Shirt, Cotton Joined Hose in Burgundy, Ribbon Garters and Turnshoes.

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